A Solo Trip to Koya-san

Koya-san is said to be one of Japan’s most sacred sites. In the year 816 AD, this temple settlement was founded by a Buddhist monk named Kobo Daishi. Today, it is believed that Kobo Daishi rests in a state of eternal meditation in the mausoleum at the end of Okunoin Cemetery. According to an information post I read in town, Kobo Daishi began meditating on March 21, 835 AD, and offers salvation for those who seek it. Monks who practice at the temple offer him ritualistic meals twice daily.

Koya-san is a beautiful place that has 117 temples and monasteries speckled throughout its landscape. Some of these temples, known as Shoboku, provide accommodation for travelers who are exploring the UNESCO-recognized pilgrimage routes. Visitors are offered the unique opportunity to live alongside the monks, dine on Buddhist vegetarian food, practice meditation, and engage in other spiritual activities.

Things to know before going

• Most shops and restaurants close at 5 pm

• You’ll need cash. The only place in town to withdraw it in Koya-san is the local post office.

Getting there

Traveling from Osaka to Koyasan is a breeze. The most challenging part of my journey was climbing the stairs of Shin-Imamiya station while battling a cold. My heart is eternally grateful to the Japanese teenager who noticed me struggling with my luggage at the bottom of the station’s mountainous stairwell. Without any hesitation, he approached and carried my bag all the way to the top. Kindness from strangers is always appreciated.

All in all, the cost of the transportation listed below cost about 2,000 yen.

• Osaka Station → Shin-Imamiya Station via the Osaka Loop Line

• Shin-Imamiya Station → Gokurakubashi Station via the Nankai-Koya Line

• Nankai Koyasan Cable → Koyasan

As the train edged closer to Koyasan, I felt as though I was being spirited away into another world. The Nankai-Koya train stops at the base of the mountain. From here, I took the Koyasan cable car which, in five magical minutes, pulled us up the mountainside, and the rest of the way to the settlement.

When I stepped off the cable car, I instantly felt like I was in another world. I breathed in lungfuls of the refreshing mountain air. Cherry blossoms floated in the gentle breeze. After being submerged in a literal sea of people on the streets of Tokyo, Koyasan was a welcome change of pace. Ancient conifers, clear air, and a sense of solitude were much appreciated. The town is small enough to be easily explored on foot, and there is also a bus that makes its way around town, making it easy to hop on and off.

📍Toro-do (Lantern Hall)

Over 10,000 donated lanterns hang, glowing beautifully in Toro-do. It is said that two lanterns in the hall have been flickering since 1088 AD. According to legend, one was donated by a woman who cut and sold her hair in exchange for a lantern to pray for her late parents. The other was given by an emperor.

Toro-do is not open to the public at night, but you may visit at dawn. So, on my second day, I opted to bundle up and brave the early morning chill to observe the morning service performed by the monks in Toro-do. I sat cross-legged amidst 4 other travelers, shrouded in the darkness of the temple and thick, incensed-scented air. The monks invited us closer, and we sat only a few feet away from the ceremony. The light of the lanterns illuminated the scene as we watched the monks perform the candle-lighting ceremony and recite their prayers. Their chanting was quiet at times, booming at others, but always rhythmic and captivating. After visiting so many non-functioning temples in Tokyo, I felt privileged to be welcomed into temples that are in use. Pictures were not allowed here, so I soaked it all in with my eyes. (Daily from 6am-7am free of charge).

Mound for the people of no relatives

The corporate tomb of the aerospace firm Shin Meiwa Kogyo

I was fascinated by the presence of the corporate tombs. I had no idea of their existence so when I came across the Panasonic headstone I was both surprised and curious. I learned that these tombs were purchased by Japanese companies as a way to honor elite employees and their families. Other companies I noticed were Nissan and UCC. From a Western perspective, it was hard not to take this as a reminder that I value time spent with loved ones far more than long hours dedicated to work. After all, which would matter more to me on my deathbed? I walked the entire 2 km path of the cemetery’s path and came to Toro-do.

📍Okunoin Cemetery

I struggle to express in words what I felt while visiting Okunoin Cemetery. Even pictures cannot capture its otherworldly feeling. It is the resting place of over 200,000 monks and other souls, making it the biggest cemetery in Japan. Weaving through the cobblestone paths of Okunoin cemetery was a breathtaking and solemn experience. Gone were the Tokyo crowds, replaced by an occasional encounter with a fellow visitor. Misty sunlight filtered through the trees shining down on the moss-covered stone graves. Specks of red were dappled everywhere in the form of bibs and hats adorned on the Jizo statues. It felt as though the landscape was resting, but somehow, very much alive. Simply walking amidst this ethereal place was like a form of meditation and time seemed to stand still.

📍Eko-In Temple

This temple offers a meditation experience in English. I dropped in for the service and one of the monks led my small group in the basics of Buddhist meditation. (Daily at 4:30, 1,000 yen in cash).

Watch out for bears and snakes!

📍Pilgrimage Routes

There are many beautiful hiking choices in Koya-san. I was drawn to the woman’s pilgrimage route (Nyoninmichi). Women were once forbidden from entering Koya-san. They worshiped on the outskirts of town and the paths that they trekked to do so are memorialized by the woman’s pilgrimage route. During the ban, lodgings that allowed women, or Nyonido, were built. Nyonido literally translates to "a temple a woman may enter." As I walked in their footsteps, I tried to imagine what those women must have felt. How must it have felt to be banned and only catch glimpses of these sacred sites from the outside? The ban on women was only lifted around the time of 1872 when the Meiji government declared that Buddhist monks could take wives and have children.

Keep in mind parts of this hike are very steep. It takes about 2.5 hours to complete and is 7 km long.

In the dense cover of the forest, I only passed one other hiker and I frequently stopped to take in the beauty all around me: the cracking of branches underfoot, the rustling of leaves, and the songbirds’ melodies. When gazing up at the massive conifers I wondered how much these ancient trees had seen. I reminded myself just how fortunate I am to have these experiences and the freedom to explore. There was peacefulness in the solitude.

What I ate

While traipsing around Koyasan, I mostly munched on onigiri that I had procured from 7-11 and stuffed into my backpack. On my last day in Koya-san, I decided to treat myself to a nice meal. So, I kicked off my shoes and stepped into a local restaurant, Miyama, which had a yummy vegetarian selection. They featured local, seasonal vegetables, and sesame tofu which is a staple in the area. The service was excellent and my waitress gifted me an itty bitty paper crane.

There is an ice cream shop up the the road from Guest House Kokuu

Where I stayed

I decided to stay in Koyasan Guest house Kokuu, a hostel located at the edge of the town. The bus’s last stop will deposit you almost right outside their door and the staff is nothing short of amazing. Even after I checked out, they allowed me to store my luggage and use the common area to charge my phone. The hostel was clean and cozy, making it the perfect spot to curl up after a long day of hiking and exploring. They also provided me with a charming map that was full of suggestions, which I will share via this link.

When my time in this sacred place came to an end, an express bus plucked me from the peacefulness of Koyasan and ushered me into the hustle and bustle of Kyoto. I purchased my ticket at the tourist center in Koya-san. You will need cash to do so. Alternatively, you can also reserve a ticket online. I highly recommend this direct bus route. It’s convenient, and the views of the mountains as we made our descent are awe-inspiring.

Okouin at night is spooky, but still beautiful

Miyama

My motivations for visiting Koya-San were partly to escape and to disconnect from my everyday life. I think many of us have felt caught up in the rat race, but there is so much more to life than just that. In my experience, taking a step away from the everyday grind allows for the opportunity to develop my mindfulness skills. I also wanted to tap into my spiritual side and connect with nature. If any of that appeals to you, I highly recommend visiting this stunning place. Have you visited any locations that made you feel closer to nature or were healing to your soul? I’d love to hear about it in the comments below!